Mistletoe: The Kiss of Death for Your Trees

Mistletoe isn’t just a plant to kiss under during the holidays, it is actually a parasite that grows on weak and sickly trees. Just about every deciduous tree can be prone to mistletoe, but some of the most common ones are maples and hackberry trees. Other trees such as oaks and elm trees can develop mistletoe due to improper planting, not enough water or even too much water. Even using the wrong kind of fertilizer  or the use of chemical pesticides can promote mistletoe to grow.

The proper way to remove mistletoe is to cut it off of every branch that is infested. If it is growing on smaller branches than you could just remove the entire branch, but be careful not to disfigure the shape of the tree. To remove it from bigger branches you will need to cut into the branch in order to remove all of the mistletoe, and then seal up the spot with a organic sealant such as Tree Trunk Goop (recipe below). Do not use tree paint or any other chemical sealant that would be harmful to the tree. It is a timely task, but it will save the health of your tree.

Tree Trunk Goop

one-third compost

one-third soft rock phosphate

one-third natural diatomaceous earth

with some water

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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Save the Crepe Myrtles!

If you look around town, you will see a lot of  beautiful crepe myrtles in our area, but you will also see crepe myrtles that have basically had their tops hacked off. This kind of pruning is not good  for the tree whatsoever. It causes the tree to have a distorted shape, meaning that the bottom of the tree is much bigger than the top. When the tree eventually starts to grow back what was pruned off, the branches are very fragile and weak, which makes the entire top of the tree frail.  These branches stay thin, so when the tree starts to produce blooms in the summer the flowers can actually be too heavy, causing the branches to lay over or even brake off.  Some people believe that this kind of pruning promotes better flowering in the summer, but this is not the case. There are a lot of  crepe myrtles around that have never been pruned which have beautiful blooms in the summer.

The proper way to prune crepe myrtles is by pruning only the really small branches, pencil size and smaller, dead branches and any suckers coming out at the bottom. This will help to keep a good flow of air blowing through and help reduce problems with powdery mildew. The only exception is if you have branches that are rubbing on your house or other buildings, then it would be ideal to trim back the branches to avoid any damage. There is also no reason to worry about removing the old seed pods, but if you prefer to remove them it will not hurt the tree in any way. The best time to do all crepe myrtle pruning is right before spring, in order to avoid any freeze damage. If you follow these simple steps than you will have beautiful crepe myrtles to enjoy year after year.

If you already have a crepe myrtle that has been overly pruned year after year, and you would now like it to grow properly, the best solution would actually be to cut off the tree at the ground and let it grow back naturally. Although it may take a while for your tree to grow back in full, its beauty will be worth the wait.

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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Don’t let that live tree go to the landfill!

The Holiday season is here, and most people have purchased a live Christmas tree. In just a couple of weeks you will be looking to take off all your ornaments and dispose of it. This year you might be thinking about what would be an environmentally friendly way to dispose of my tree.

One way to dispose of your tree in an eco-friendly way is to chop up the tree and use it as mulch around your trees and plants. Another, is to place your tree out by your bird feeder, songbirds and other animals can use it as shelter for the winter. If you have a pond on your property, you can properly sink the tree so that the fish can use it as shelter as well. Or if you are just looking to dispose of it, find out were in your city you can take your tree to, so that it can be recycled and turned into mulch.

All of us here at MONSTER Landscapes wish you and your family Happy Holidays and a Happy New Year!

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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How to Plant Spring Bulbs.

Planting spring-flowering bulbs is fairly simple. It just takes a few simple steps and a little knowledge to get the job done. The best time of the year to plant spring-flowering bulbs is now, between mid September to mid December. Planting spring bulbs now is very important, because the cool temperatures help to stimulate the flowering buds and to promote root growth. Below are some of the best bulbs to plant in this area:

  1. Tulips
  2. Daffodils
  3. Iris
  4. Crocus
  5. Alliums
  6. Galanthus ( Snowdrops )
  7. Leucojum aestivum ( Snowflake )
  8. Ranunculus
  9. Grape Hyacinths/Muscari

Before planting your bulbs, inspect them and make sure that they are not rotted. The bulbs should be heavy and solid with no cuts on them. The cuts can open the door for disease or insects. When buying bulbs just make sure that they are of good quality before leaving the store.

The next step in planting bulbs is to make sure that they have the right lighting. Most all spring-flowering bulbs do there best in full or part sun. One good thing is that most bulbs are done blooming before the trees put on all their leaves. So if you have a spot where it gets sun in the winter, because there are no leaves on the trees, than it probably would be fine to plant some there if you wanted too. Also a little shade and cooler temperatures help the bulbs flower longer.

Planting and soil quality are the next steps. Most bulbs do well in just about any kind of soil, but a good sandy loam or top soil usually works the best. You just really want to have good drainage so that there is no standing water around the bulbs. This could cause them to rot and die. When planting the bulbs it is best to plant them about 2 to 3 inches deep, depending on the bulb size. Just don’t plant them to deep, because they will not be able to push through the soil. Proper spacing is also a key factor in planting your bulbs. It is best to place tiny bulbs about 3 inches apart and larger bulbs about 6 to 12 inches apart. This will insure give you the look that you want.

Now that you have your bulbs planted and ready for the spring, when will they start to bloom. It depends on the variety of the bulb, species and the climate. They can start to bloom any where from January to May depending on the temperatures. If we have a warm winter than the bulbs will start to bloom earlier, but if we have a cold winter than they will start to bloom later.

One of the last steps to keeping your bulbs looking great year after year is maintenance. Once the bulbs have matured and are done flowering it is time to remove the foliage and divide them up. You want to wait to remove the foliage when it starts to die. This will allow the bulbs to build up their food supply for flowering the next year. It usually takes about six weeks from flowering until the foliage is ready to be removed. If you remove the foliage too early, you risk harming the bulb or even killing them. If you choose to divide them, this is the right time, right before your remove the foliage, so that you know exactly where all the bulbs are.

The last step is the chilling process. Most of the spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips, need to be chilled for about 6 to 8 weeks at a temperature between 40 to 50 degrees for excellent blooming in the spring. Now that you know what to do, go have fun and make your landscape look stunning for the spring.

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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What to do with all those leaves…

Leaves are a huge problem this time of year, but their dramatic beauty can be breathtaking.  There are several ways to deal with the leaves in the fall, such as using them as mulch or as compost.

Unfortunately, to use leaves effectively as mulch and compost they still need to be raked or blown from your gardens and lawn so that you have control over where they are used.  Leaving a thick layer of leaves on your lawn or garden can create conditions that lead to rotting of the grass or plants beneath.

Once your leaves have been gathered, you have a choice between using them un-decomposed, as mulch, or composting them before you put them in your garden. Regardless of how you are going to use them, the first step is to chop or shred your leaves. This will save space if you are placing them in a bin, minimize their blowing around if you are placing them in the garden, and it will help speed up their eventual decomposition into composted organic matter.

One way to shred the leaves is by using your lawn mower. First attach a bagger to your lawn mower before you begin cutting. As you cut the lawn, the leaves will be shredded and gathered into the bag. You may also gather leaves in a pile and run the lawn mower without a bagger through the pile. Turn the discharge shoot in one direction so that the shredded leaves are placed in a pile and not blown all over the place.

Once you have your shredded leaves, you may place them in your landscape beds as mulch immediately, if you wish. But be careful not to place too much of mulch directly on the crowns of perennial flowers, because it can lead to root rot. If you do use un-composted shredded leaves as mulch in your garden, you should add some nitrogen fertilizer to the garden in the spring, as the leaves break down they may rob the soil of nitrogen.

Another way to deal with your leaves is to compost them, either alone or with other organic matter. The easiest but longest process is to place the shredded leaves in a wire bin. Leave them there for two years, turning them occasionally, and you will have a really nice product. The only problem with using leaves alone for composting is you will need a tremendous amount of leaves to produce any quantity of compost.

Leaves can be most effective as a component in a compost pile that contains a variety of organic matters. Your  compost pile should contain materials rich in nitrogen and others rich in carbon. Leaves can provide the carbon component of your pile. Other good carbon components include straw, wood and bark chips. Good nitrogenous materials include grass and plant clippings, raw fruit and vegetable scraps, eggshells, and coffee grounds. Use your shredded leaves and other carbon materials to layer between your nitrogenous materials in a bin. Turn the pile every so often to aerate it, and make sure that it is moist, but not to wet. The amount of time it will take to produce compost depends upon its size, composition and conditions. The process can take anywhere from three months to one year. Most small compost bins take 6 to 9 months to produce a fully composted product. Make sure that you cut the materials into small pieces, and turn the piles about once every 2 to 3 weeks. Happy composting!

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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The Perfect Time To Plant

The recent change in weather has many people thinking it must be too late to plant trees and shrubs. Actually, fall is surpassing spring as the better season to plant shrubs and trees.

Why you may ask?  Since the summer heat is over and the cool winter season is yet to come, the shrubs and trees love this time of the year. Any time the soil temperature is 40 degrees and above the plant roots are growing, and in Texas that could be all winter long. During the winter months the newly planted trees and shrubs can establish their root systems, so that when spring comes they are ready for the wave of new foliage.

It is also a great time if you have any plants or trees that you might want to transplant. The cooler temperatures help to prevent the shrub or tree from stressing as much. Just make sure that when transplanting you leave enough soil and root ball on the plant, if not you could harm the plant severely. This is also the time of the year when a lot of nurseries have bargains on trees and shrubs, but remember a lot of the time the ones that are on sale are the ones that are unhealthy.

So before you jump at any bargains just make sure the plants that you are buying are good and healthy. So don’t wait for spring, you are in the season of the plants.

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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Mulch the lawn?

While the concept may sound odd, mulching your lawn is the best thing you can do for it.  There are many different ways to mulch your lawn and all are beneficial to soil health.  Just choosing to mulch the lawn clippings and leaves in the fall are two simple ways to help your lawn all year long.  For maximum results you can add a compost topdressing to your lawn in the late fall or early winter once the grass has stopped growing.  It will protect the roots from the cold weather and nourish the soil, which causes the grass to stay greener in the fall and come out earlier in the spring.  Most lawns are thicker and free of weeds, diseases and pests.  With just one treatment a year you will be able to fertilize less, or not have to at all.  The addition of compost to your soil will also improve water retention,  so you can water less!

Application Instructions:

The topdressing can be applied at anytime, but it is most effective when applied after the cool weather has stopped the grass from growing.  A 1/2″ layer is recommended, but anywhere from 1/4″ to 1/2″ is beneficial.  1 cubic yard of compost will cover 650sq ft at 1/2″.  The best way to spread the compost is to use a wheelbarrow to put small equidistant piles throughout the area and then to spread them evenly with a rake.  It is important to water thoroughly after spreading so no nutrients are lost and so it doesn’t smother the grass.

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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Stop the weeds from sprouting!

Although the lawn stops growing in the wintertime, weeds will continue to pop up.  Wintertime weeds can be even more unsightly since they are so noticeable against a dormant lawn.  The best bet for preventing them is to treat your lawn with a pre-emergent.  The organic pre-emergent of choice is corn gluten meal because it has a unique property which prevents all seeds from developing root systems.  Corn gluten meal is also an effective fertilizer, making it the perfect weed & feed!

Application Instructions:

It is most effective when applied at 20lbs per 1,000sq ft.  It is most effective when applied one to three weeks before weed seeds are expected to sprout.  The corn gluten meal also comes in a granular form which is easier to spread in a regular fertilizer spreader, but it is not nearly as effective as the actual meal (which looks like cornmeal).  You can use your spreader to apply the meal version as well, just make sure that there is no moisture as it may be prone to clumping.  It is important to water it in thoroughly after applying, and then if you see some weeds start to pop up discontinue watering for a week or more.  It is important to remember that the corn gluten meal will prevent all seeds from germinating, so wait at least 3 weeks after applying before planting any new grass seed.

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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Foliar Feeding

It has been scientifically proven that plants can absorb nutrients through their leaves.  When fertilizers are sprayed directly onto the foliage, the nutrients are soaked in more quickly, often producing immediate results. Frequent foliar spraying will also help to stimulate plant growth by increasing photosynthesis.  You can also use liquid fertilizers to soak the soil, which will help to improve the quality by increasing the microbial activity.

If your lawn suffers from yellowing, then spraying with organic fertilizers can help to replace the nutrients that the sun has leached out.  With regular spraying your grass will show greening improvement within a few days.  Foliar feeding also increases the heat tolerance of plants, and spraying during high humidity or early morning will increase the effectiveness.

Below is a list of liquid fertilizers that can be used to foliar feed:

  • Compost Tea
  • Liquid Seaweed
  • Fish Emulsion
  • Molasses
  • Garret Juice (a mix of multiple fertilizers, can be purchased locally)

Foliar feeding can be a great addition to your organic program, and the quick results will give you instant gratification for your hard work!

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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At what height should I mow?

Although it can be tempting to cut your grass as short as possible in order to avoid weekly cuttings, it can be harmful to the grass, especially in the summer heat.  The root system of your grass is directly related to the length of the blade, so cutting your grass at the recommended height is important to keep a healthy root system.  It is important to mow regularly, because removing more than 1/3 of the blade can be harmful to the grass.

Cutting too short can also expose the soil to more sunlight, allowing weed seeds to germinate.  It is a good idea to start out at the recommended mowing height for your grass in the beginning of the growing season, and then raise it up to 3″ during the hottest summer months.  This will help keep your grass healthy and avoid that unattractive yellowing.

Recommended Mowing Heights:

  • Bermudagrass1 ½ inch
  • St. Augustine2 inches
  • Zoysiagrass – 1 ½ inches
  • Buffalograss3 inches
  • Perennial Ryegrass2 inches
  • Tall Fescue2 inches

Scalping the lawn is never recommended unless it is prior to overseeding.  It is ideal to mulch your grass clippings.  The nitrogen in the clippings will act as a fertilizer, and they will also make the soil healthier preventing more weeds from growing.

If you have any questions about this subject or anything else, don’t hesitate to call us, 972-420-4858, or email us at info@monsterlandscapes.net!

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